Ms Fern

The first time I met Ms Fern I fell in love. It was the day before my trip down the Mekong river. Ms Fern was to become my ticket agent and guide across the river into Lao.
The first thing Ms Fern did was ask me for my passport, declaration cards and money. It was that simple. This encounter took place on the front counter of my hotel lobby.  As Ms Fern filled out the immigration and declaration cards in a penmanship that was impeccable I might add, I watched the desk clerk. He was tall for a Thai and large across the shoulders. That combined the deep voice and the Adams Apple left one with no doubt, that underneath that dress was a willy, wanker, rod or Johnston. Call it what you will it was there. Lady-boys an interesting part of this culture.
Once all the paperwork was completed Ms Fern gave me my passport, updated declaration cards and tickets for tomorrow's slow boat down the river.
She kept the money.
As she stood, Ms Fern turned, looked me straight in the eye and said, "eight thirty be here for tuk tuk ride to immigration". Turning once more Ms Fern spun around and walked out of the hotel lobby.
Such presence, such grace.
I was left with nothing to do for the rest of the day and night.
After much consideration I decided on locating some food and drink. In hindsight this was a good decision.
Walking around that night I was struck with a rather nostalgic feeling. That; Hey I'm in a small town, feeling. I guess it's the same the world over. Dusty streets. Cats and dogs everywhere. Uneven sidewalks were there are sidewalks. Stores with for lease signs on the front door. All business is shut down now that the sun has set. Only the small "convenience" stores are still open. Really these stores are nothing more than a room at the front of someone's home. A room that is open to the street and which is usually filled floor to ceiling with all sorts of wares. Most of what is sold is various smokes, beers, whiskys, cough medicines and instant noodles.
An old woman sitting on a small stool watching a small TV is there to take your money. If you want something in the store you simply reach in and grab what you want, show it to the lady and she will then grab an oversized calculator punch some numbers into it. She will then look at the numbers nod her head and  then show it to you. That is the price. 
The price for me was 90 baht. Not bad, a little less than 3 dollars for 3 cans of beer and some gum. I now had my supplies for tomorrow's adventure perhaps this would be a good time to call it a night.

from the roof of my hotel 

That's Lao over there.

Viva la difference

It is 7am in Chiangkhong. Chiangkhong is a small sleepy farming town with one small coffee shop. 

The shop is located only about 150m from my hotel but on this day a heavy fog makes the walk seem so much longer. As  I walked pass the closed and shuttered shops I felt a sense of mystery envelope me.  This day was the beginning of something new, something big.  Something was waiting for me outside of that fog and I didn't know what.

I needed to clear the fog inside my head and to do that I needed coffee.

Stepping into the lovely coffee shop I was greeted with the customary Sa wat dee ka by the shop’s owner.  I in turn replied with Sa wat  dee krap.  The pleasantries over I ordered my coffee and I did so using my limited Thai. Coffee Americano lon mai sai nom mai sai lam tan krap.  Coffee hot no milk no sugar.  As is usually the case my words were greeted with a  wonderful smile and some helpful hints on pronunciation. 

With coffee in hand I head outside to sit in a very comfortable looking swinging bamboo chair. As I sipped my coffee the fog began to slowly dissipate, both inside my head and the world around me.  With nothing better to do I decided on another coffee and was enjoying the morning quiet when a group of four women came towards the shop for their morning coffee. With smiles all around and a slight nod of our heads  the women passed me and entered the shop.

I turned to watch the beautiful backsides of these women as they entered the shop and I continued to watch them as they spoke amongst themselves trying to decide what to order.

The first to order stood up to the counter and completely ignored the customary Sa wat dee ka and immediately began to babble.

With her head tilted up to look at the menu board she said “Ya Ya I want a coffee. Perked not instant I don’t like that instant coffee. I also want some milk with my coffee not coffee mate cause that stuff is bad for you. Real milk, skim if you have it but 2% will do if that is all you’ve got. Oh and I want some sort of bun not a donut but something more like a croissant. What have you got like that? You got anything like that?”

The more the woman spoke the less I heard. The less she interested me. My gaze shifted to the shop owner and as I looked into her eyes I could, for a brief moment, see what she was thinking and I completely agreed with her.

Her eyes said, “Lady what in the world are you talking about? Why in the world would you think I speak English? You do realize that we are in rural northern Thailand don’t you? Oh you poor foolish lady.”

Our eyes then met and they spoke to each other.

She said, “Did catch all that?”.
“Yes, sorry I don’t know what to say.” And I shrugged my shoulders.

To which she replied, “Ah mai bhen rai no worries” and smiled that lovely smile.

We said more without speaking than the woman, who had now finished ordering, had.

As I turned my chair to once again face outside. I noticed now that in front of me the fog had lifted and then behind me I heard the Thai woman say.

“Americano lon?”

I smiled.
Perhaps the fog inside was lifting also.