Ms Fern

The first time I met Ms Fern I fell in love. It was the day before my trip down the Mekong river. Ms Fern was to become my ticket agent and guide across the river into Lao.
The first thing Ms Fern did was ask me for my passport, declaration cards and money. It was that simple. This encounter took place on the front counter of my hotel lobby.  As Ms Fern filled out the immigration and declaration cards in a penmanship that was impeccable I might add, I watched the desk clerk. He was tall for a Thai and large across the shoulders. That combined the deep voice and the Adams Apple left one with no doubt, that underneath that dress was a willy, wanker, rod or Johnston. Call it what you will it was there. Lady-boys an interesting part of this culture.
Once all the paperwork was completed Ms Fern gave me my passport, updated declaration cards and tickets for tomorrow's slow boat down the river.
She kept the money.
As she stood, Ms Fern turned, looked me straight in the eye and said, "eight thirty be here for tuk tuk ride to immigration". Turning once more Ms Fern spun around and walked out of the hotel lobby.
Such presence, such grace.
I was left with nothing to do for the rest of the day and night.
After much consideration I decided on locating some food and drink. In hindsight this was a good decision.
Walking around that night I was struck with a rather nostalgic feeling. That; Hey I'm in a small town, feeling. I guess it's the same the world over. Dusty streets. Cats and dogs everywhere. Uneven sidewalks were there are sidewalks. Stores with for lease signs on the front door. All business is shut down now that the sun has set. Only the small "convenience" stores are still open. Really these stores are nothing more than a room at the front of someone's home. A room that is open to the street and which is usually filled floor to ceiling with all sorts of wares. Most of what is sold is various smokes, beers, whiskys, cough medicines and instant noodles.
An old woman sitting on a small stool watching a small TV is there to take your money. If you want something in the store you simply reach in and grab what you want, show it to the lady and she will then grab an oversized calculator punch some numbers into it. She will then look at the numbers nod her head and  then show it to you. That is the price. 
The price for me was 90 baht. Not bad, a little less than 3 dollars for 3 cans of beer and some gum. I now had my supplies for tomorrow's adventure perhaps this would be a good time to call it a night.

from the roof of my hotel 

That's Lao over there.